The travels of the Bakewell Crosses

The western face

There are a surprising number of pre-Conquest stone crosses in Derbyshire, but Bakewell churchyard must be unique in having two. The larger one can be seen above, near the eastern end of the church, with carvings on all four sides, but with the cross head missing. The carvings are both worn and defaced, but on the eastern side scrolls of vines can be seen, while on the reverse are some scenes from the Christian tradition, such as the Annunciation. There is an interpretation panel in the church which claims that the cross has a Pagan side and a Christian side, so that the western face has the figure of Woden at the top.

The Anglo-Saxon cross

The second cross is near the south door, is a little shorter and has never had a cross head. According to the panels in the church this cross is Anglo-Scandinavian, while the larger one is Anglo-Saxon, but the carvings are really quite similar. The crosses are generally dated to between 800 and 1000 CE, but there was clearly a local tradition of carving which may have persisted for centuries, making dating difficult. In 2012 Archaeological Research Services (ARS) of Bakewell were funded to survey the sculpture of Bakewell churchyard, and their research can be studied in two reports. See:

archaeologicalresearchservices.com/projects/bakewellcross.htm

A survivor: Wheston cross near Tideswell

There is good evidence that both crosses were moved to Bakewell churchyard for protection, possibly in the nineteenth century, when an appreciation of antiquities developed. In the early medieval period travel on the Derbyshire moors would have been difficult and even dangerous, and the sight of a richly carved cross conveying the familiar Christian message would have comforted lonely travellers. Even today, rural roads in Catholic regions such as Bavaria have their wayside shrines, often decorated with flowers. But in England in the seventeenth century Puritan fanatics defaced what they saw as Popish images, both in churches and by the wayside. This explains why in-situ survivals like the Wheston cross are so rare. As part of their research ARS excavated a site near the old Hassop station, hoping to find evidence that the taller cross had been moved from there, but the findings were inconclusive. They did, however, establish that the cross had had a different location before arriving in the churchyard (see report). There is better evidence for the movements of the other cross. In the nineteenth century it was displayed in the garden of Holt House, Darley Dale, having apparently been found buried on the moor above Beeley, northwest of Screetham House Farm, on the line of the Chatsworth to Alfreton trackway. What we can never know is how many other crosses have been buried, broken up or used for construction over the last few centuries.

The two Williams

St Anne’s, Beeley

Diaries can be a useful source in studying travel patterns in the past. William Hodkin was a farmer and general dealer at Beeley, on the Chatsworth estate in the mid-nineteenth century. He kept a diary, mainly of his farming work, from 1864 to 1866, which reveals the shape of his trading network. Although the station at Rowsley was open at this time he made relatively little use of the railway, either riding on horseback or travelling with a cart when collecting or selling livestock or deadstock.

During two and a half months April to June 1864 he travelled to Bakewell 13 times, to Calton Lees 5 times, and to Chesterfield, Beeley Moor and Rowsley 4 times each. Other trips took him to Ashford, Matlock and Edensor. Interestingly, the state of the roads is never discussed: presumably he knew them all so well that there seemed no need to mention it, although he does once mention that his horse had collapsed on the steep hill to Chesterfield.

Hilltop House, Beeley, one of William’s regular destinations

It has to be admitted that William Hodkin was no Pepys. A typical entry (Thursday July 5th, 1864) reads: ‘Went rabbitting in the morning, making bills out at night. Father not doing much Thomas thrashing John carting stone to the highways’. This last job is a reminder that the roads around Beeley were not then tarmaced, and were still maintained by local labour. His wife is only referred to as ‘The Mrs’, although there are frequent mentions of the weather, and the occasional reference to the vicar’s sermon shows that William did sometimes take time off.

William’s landlord, William Cavendish, 7th Duke of Devonshire