
I’ve just walked the Dalesway, an 80-mile route from Ilkley in Yorkshire to Bowness-on-Windermere in Cumbria. It took Rene and me seven days to walk the Way, averaging about 11 miles per day. Such a lengthy journey takes some organisation, because of the need to arrange overnight accommodation at the right intervals – not easy in the Pennines. But the experience – relatively unusual – gave me an insight into the lives of travellers in the pre-industrial world, who might be on the move for weeks, or even longer: people like drovers who would travel at the speed of their animals.

Walking in unknown country over long distances creates three main preoccupations. Firstly, am I on the right track? Getting lost is not just annoying, it also adds more miles to the day, and even with modern 1:25,000 maps and map apps it’s quite easily done! Secondly, travellers on foot need to concentrate on what’s under foot – boulders and bogs all need avoiding, and on some stretches this can demand your full concentration. Finally, you have to keep an eye open for threats, whether it’s a bad-tempered herd of bullocks or a menacing thunder cloud – and in the past these could have included footpads and robbers!

As a result of all these, we found ourselves not just physically exhausted after a few days on the road but also mentally drained – rather surprising, as we had imagined that a trip like this would be quite relaxing! It certainly provides an insight into the historical experience, and fills me with admiration for the historic wayfarers strengths and resilience!
