Waterloo sunset?

The hero of the hour

In an age of instant news, when an election result in the USA is available instantly on our phones, it’s hard to imagine a time when news of events even a hundred miles away could take weeks to reach Derbyshire. Before railways and national newspapers began to shrink distances a frequent source of information was the stagecoach, carrying the latest news from London. So on the 8th of July 1815, the people of Derby were finally sure that Napoleon had been decisively defeated at Waterloo when the Traveller Coach, one of the regular services from the capital, arrived in town. Celebrations were clearly called for, as the coach was decorated with laurels and lilies, and was pulling a French tricolor in the dust behind – a flag that was shortly burned by the crowd. So 20 days after the French defeat on June 18th the news began to percolate through the county.

Another Derbyshire coach, the Peveril of the Peak, starting from Islington

The battle was protracted and bloody, with some estimates putting the number of casualties at about 50,000, with equal numbers of dead and wounded on each side. Yet for civilians in Britain it decisively concluded over 20 years of warfare, and Wellington was widely honored for his victory, despite the fact that British forces were a minority of the Allied armies, and it was only the timely arrival of German troops that tipped the balance – even Wellington admitted that it was ‘the nearest run thing you ever saw in your life’.

The Wellington Cross, Baslow Edge and a visitor

Many monuments commemorate the battle, such as the cross above, although this was not erected until 1866, years after Wellington’s death. But not everyone welcomed the defeat of Napoleon. For many radicals and romantics, such as Byron, the French emperor was the heir to the revolutionary spirit of 1792, and British troops had died to replace a hated Bourbon on the throne of France. These sympathisers included the sixth Duke of Devonshire, who displayed a large marble bust of the emperor at Chatsworth, and as part of a liberal, Whig family had no time for the arch-Tory Arthur Wellesley, first Duke of Wellington.

Chelsea pensioners reading the Waterloo Despatch’. Wellington commissioned this picture from Wilkie for the enormous sum of £12,000.

Cromford Bridge

Upstream view of bridge

It is easy to forget how crucial bridges were to the medieval traveller, who could otherwise be delayed at a ford for days, waiting for the river to be passable. Many bridges, including Cromford, were probably originally timber structures with stone piers.

The name ‘Cromford’ means a ford on a (river) bend, and it seems likely that the ford was roughly in the same place as the bridge, just below the point where the Derwent curves out of Matlock Bath. This must have been a vital crossing point, linking the route descending Cromford Hill from Wirksworth and beyond with the road to Starkholmes and old Matlock, plus the older route up along Hearthstone Lane, and the road to Lea Bridge going through Bow Wood.

Dating bridges is always difficult since most have been widened and frequently repaired. In this case it can be seen that the arches are pointed on the upstream side, but more rounded on the downstream, suggesting a substantial rebuild from an original packhorse width. It is generally thought to be fifteenth century, but may be older.

What makes this bridge so special are the ruins of a bridge chapel on the west bank – not to be confused with the later fishing house. Bridge chapels were built to allow travellers the chance to pray for a safe journey and perhaps leave an offering for the upkeep of the bridge. Only a handful survive in Britain, and this example may have been built at the same time as the bridge. It became ruined after the Reformation, but was excavated and repaired by the Derbyshire Archaeological Society in 1951.

Next door to the chapel ruins is the more recent fishing lodge, which has very recently been given a new stone roof. Over the door is the inscription ‘Piscatoribus sacrum’ meaning sacred to fishermen. It may well have been built by the Arkwrights, possibly for their water bailiff. Their grand house, Willersley Castle, dominates the view on the opposite side.

The fishing lodge

Another, easily overlooked feature of this busy bridge is a stone inscription ‘THE LEAP OF MR B H MARE JUNE 1697’ on the southern parapet, marking the spot where a Benjamin Hayward leapt on horseback from the bridge into the river. Presumably the river was in full flow at the time as apparently both horse and rider survived.

Mare’s leap

The bridge is near the terminus wharf of the Cromford canal, opened in 1794. But it was also the rather unlikely starting point of the Cromford Bridge and Langley Mill turnpike road, which ran from there along the east bank of the river towards Lea Bridge, and then on to Holloway, Crich and Bullbridge. This road seems to have opened in the early nineteenth century, and would have provided a faster link with Nottingham and district, replacing the old hilly route past Castletop and through Bow Wood. This is the road which was badly affected by flooding in late 2019 and has been closed ever since.